Wednesday, July 25, 2007

The Sultry South

Our trip to Southern Italy (to the fright of my parents who repeatedly reminded me to guard my purse) began last Friday with a 5:30 am train to Napoli (Naples). Not wanting to wake up too early, seeing as we usually attempt to sleep around 1 am due to the heat, Elizabeth and I arrived at the Santa Maria Novella Train Station 15 minutes before our departure. However, we could not find our bin (track) number on the board, after trying to board an incorrect train, Elizabeth asked me I was sure I had the right station (as Florence has two). I was sure, but checked to humor her…..our tickets were from Campo Di Marto Train Station….we raced to a taxi and sprinted up the track at a little past 5:30, praying we’d see the train. We didn’t.

Ugg. What do we do?

We looked at the board and it said 50’ RIT (tren in ritardo, train is late)!!! So we happily waited for our late train and then rode it for 4 hours to Napoli, a city which looks scary just from inside the train station. I could not believe the amount of tagging and graffiti. We then boarded the local train which reminded me of a sticky roller coaster ride with its greasy seats, poor air circulation, and sketchy people. We met two cute older ladies from New Orleans and I thought to myself, I’d like to be their ages, still touring the world, fearlessly. We hopped out at the Pompeii stop and began our journey back in time to 63 AD when Mt. Vesuvius erupted.

First of all, Pompeii is huge and hot. I found it interesting that the waters used to come up to its walls, since there was no water in sight, as we passed remnants of an ancient dock. Below is a picture of the forum on of the main areas of government (Lucy feel free to correct me when ever you feel the urge).

This picture is a plaster casting of a human who appears to be either praying or covering his mouth from the ash. He is in a pottery stand as you can see the many clay jars.

One of Elizabeth’s favorite sites was the bakery and mill below. They would hook up mules to the gray mills on the right and they would turn the pedestal to make flour and on the left is the brick oven. Sadly I don’t think pizza as we know it had been invented…although they did have bread with tomatoes as simple street food.

We then continued on to Sorrento, our home for the next two nights. Elizabeth and I joked we were on our honeymoon weekend together since the entire weekend/town was so cute. After 30 minutes of searching for our hotel, we found Franco’s restaurant and his family. Franco immediately offered us coffee or anything we wanted. He was such a nice man. His wife and grandson in stroller walked up the three blocks to our room as Elizabeth and I followed in awe of her ability to quickly push the boy and the stroller. Our room was fantastic-in blues and lemon yellows of course and with AC! We immediately showered and crashed for a couple hours before dinner.

We woke up starved and made our way to Franco’s restaurant. The streets of Sorrento are nothing like Florence. Besides that Sorrento is a beach town primarily visited by Brits in the summer for the last 150 years, it is way cleaner and brighter. (I didn’t receive a single cat call…and it’s not because we didn’t look good b/c we did…no I take that back Elizabeth saw someone remove his sunglasses and check us out, like they do in the movies…oye. But no verbal remarks). Elizabeth ordered fried shrimp and squid and I got pasta arbbiata (spicy!). Elizabeth thoroughly enjoyed eating the shrimp eats. We capped the night with gelato (she got chocolate and forest berries and I got lemon and lemon-vanilla) and sad next to the merry go round before returning to our room to sleep the best sleep ever.

On Saturday, we ventured to Capri (and it’s not said like the pants or the song, it’s CA-pri, I had a lot fun with this—ask Elizabeth). We took a 25 minute ferry over to the little island that once was the summer retreat for Augustus Ceaser. Upon arrival we took another speed boat to see the Blue Grotto (like the big boat below with the smaller row boats hitching a ride).

It was quite the ordeal. Next we loaded into a small row boat which our guide, Marco, guided through a small opening in the limestone (aka by pulling on a chain on the side while Elizabeth laid on top of me, with Marco flat on top of her) into the blue water cave. My picture doesn’t do it justice. Inside the guides all sang this Italian song and I wondered if Walt Disney had been here to get the idea for pirates of the Caribbean. It was a hoot.

Returning to the dock, we took a cable car up to Capri Town and then a bus up to Anacapri, where we ate lunch at Ristorante Columbo. It was an amazingly cute spot: terrace with hanging grape vines all around with views down to the dock. Here we had some our our best foods. We began with the antipasti chef’s sampler, seen below.

Then Elizabeth ordered the gnocchi al Sorrento (tomatoes and bufallo cheese (B. cheese is from southern Italy) and I had pesto pasta. Both were homemade pastas and delicious!

Then we took a chair lift (are you counting the types of transport so far? Foot, hydrofoil/ferry, speed boat, row boat, cable car, bus, chair lift…that’s 7) to Monte Solaro, at the very top of Capri island. It was like soaring California at Disneyland, but real. We enjoyed smells of lemon groves and sights of farms and the distant harbors and other islands.

At the top, we could see from every direction. Truly paradise. Check out the rock formation behind me in this picture.

That night we had the BEST pizza (according to Elizabeth, I think the one we had in Florence was better, but it’s pretty close) at a little restaurant that took me forever to find because tired and hungry, I had flipped the map in my head so that instead of walking towards the water, I walked inland…long story short Elizabeth was about to kill me if we didn’t find water for her parched tongue soon. Although we did stop at a pastry shop off the beaten path that she claims made the best cannoli ever. So with every downside, there is an upside. Following dinner, Elizabeth had some sandals handmade for her (they are adorable) and I had more gelato.

Our final day was spent in Positano, where “stairs are as steep as ladders” however we did not run into any of them. John Steinbeck stayed here for a year in the fifties and he is right when he says it is “a dream place that isn’t quite real when you’re there becomes beckoningly real after you have gone.” Here is a view from where the bus dropped us off of Positano’s main beach and dock.

We took a small boat with a red smiling fish to Spiaggia di Laurita (Laura’s beach) where it is lower key and more locals spend their Sunday. Check out the driver and patron…it’s the basic mentality in Positano in a photo.

And here is a photograph of the dog that jumped aboard and while he lied down the entire ride, he jumped up when we got close, in anticipation of arrival. We then docked at the most unsafe looking dock I’ve ever seen of random plywood and tires. Elizabeth and secured our sun chairs and quickly (I gradually entered) the sea. Wow. It was so clear, warm and refreshing.

We then had a great meal at Da Alfado’s steps from our chairs. Elizabeth ordered their signature dish: squid and potatoes—good choice. I couldn’t believe it was Italian, but it was. North and Southern Italy are so different…even more so that California is split. I guess its mostly because Italy is recently unified and before was a bunch of city states. I love how passionate everyone is about the region they call home.

Sadly we said our goodbyes to Positano (but not before having the BEST granita) and made our way back to Naples where we had an hour, but sadly did not have such a memorable pizza (even though this is where Pizza was “born”). We got back to Florence around midnight and crashed.

Sadly, I’m counting the days not the weeks until I return to California. However, Elizabeth and I specifically left Northern Italy-Verona, Milan and the Lake district-for a future return trip. ☺ Sadly Alyssa had to return home last Saturday to attend to some family matters and I’m missing her. Especially when I get home from class or this morning when my mind got the best of me and I thought I was being robbed. Hope things are going okay hun and you’re in my prayers.

I just got back from drawing the David and am now cramming in a few more bikes until my final project is due on Thursday. We have our farwell dinner tonight from API which should be delicious. Tomorrow we're checking out a chocolateria and then Thursday Elizabeth and I are searching for bistecca fluorine, a signature of our city. Friday we plan to spend our last day in a near by currently undecided town.

It has all gone so fast. I’ve made some great friends. Wait, I don’t want to do this wrap up thing now. I’m getting out there and soaking up the last bit.

Ciao
Jacqueline

PS I've been here four weeks and still haven't been into the Duomo...ekks (I just saw David yesterday...he's still looking good)

**So it turns out my computer will no longer let me post pictures, sorry I'll try again later**

Wednesday, July 18, 2007

After the Rain...Sunshine

“Try and fail, but don't fail to try.”
- Stephen Kaggwa


So yesterday and today have been pretty close to fabulous. We did portraits yesterday and I was very happy with my drawing of Lorenzo, our model, although my class and I decided it looks like the model and Jesus (as in the holy son of God). I'll snap a picture of it later so you can make comparisons.

Last night Elizabeth and I went to this great Greek restaurant a block from my apartment. Oddly the hummus they served us was fried to look like the fried cheese you get at Chilli's. I guess we made a face because our super gorgeous Greek waiter asked if anything was wrong. When we said we were more used to the spread, he shrugged/laughed and said that's not how they do it here. It was delicious never the less. I had a kebab for my main and Elizabeth had some gyros and some other meat--both which replenished the salt we'd sweated out that day (it is predicted to be 40C tomorrow...that over 100F!!).

Today Elizabeth and I had our Science morning--we visited the Leonardo Da Vinci museum and the History of Science museum. Embarrassed for our sector of study, we left the museums disappointed. Why is science presented so poorly? Is it some test to make sure only driven people who are slightly crazy study it? There was one interesting room at the HS museum of medical instruments...including many wax models of babies in the womb with forceps pulling them out. I mean-wow-they had ever possible position of a birth: leg first, umbilical cord twisted, arm and leg coming out, doctors arm in the womb....it was graphic never the less. They also had a brain surgery kit too. I decided those brain surgeons from that era (200 years ago) must have been literally out of their minds to do such blind surgeries....even today its a huge risk.

We rewarded ourselves for our stamina with a wonderful granita (the original slushie...it's from Sicily. They are Elizabeth's fav. She got almond flavored and I got lemon). Then we made our way to the Yellow bar, a slightly touristy pizza joint. The pizza was good, but not as fabulous as the one from three days ago. I got mine with tomatoes and buffalo mozterella. yumm

After our meal, we went our separate ways and I searched for a shady side street to paint a bicycle. I decided to do my final (7 water colored pieces, the final one as a conclusionary piece) on bikes (get excited Dad). I have two so far. I want to capture the idea of waiting and time in their shadows or perhaps include a little personalization in the wall the bikes lean against. We'll see. Marcia has been particularly taken with them, and I have really enjoyed painting them.

Which leads me to the best event of the day/week/trip......


While Marcia and I were going over my self-portrait she asked me if I had ever thought of getting a masters in fine arts (!). I know my huge smile in shock was answer enough. We chatted about what it entailed, briefly. Evidently, if you have a portfolio of work, it doesn't matter what your undergrad is in. She continually stressed the importance of the decision though. Once I go art, it's 3 years of schooling for the masters and I'd have to be okay with leaving science. I'd keep it as a "hobby" like art is now. Reading the Scientific American or well, just talking frequently with my friends, since like Liz, they are mostly science or medicine. I'm not upset I did neuroscience for the past three years, it really has taken time in science to get me where I am now.

Builds layers and character I guess, although I always wish I had someone who told me to follow it. Not someone would have said you can do it if you want, but someone like Marcia who said "she'd be excited to see what I came up with during my masters studies" It was so empowering. After being shot down by the AP board junior year, I won't lie, a little of the wind my sail died. I know it's just one person's opinion and part of me thinks I wasn't ready to come right out of high school to art school. In h/s I loved the structure: class starts here and goes to this time, tests ever week, and detailed expectations. Art school may have been too loose right out of h/s. Additionally, I've always hated the idea of specializing--probably because I hadn't found exactly what I wanted to do forever, or for a long period of time. But the fact that I keep coming back to art: oiling painting during finals week last winter quarter, taking painting classes at night when I'm at home, going to museums, taking art history classes...ect....must mean something. I don't think I want to just "be a painter" for my occupation. I don't think I'm up to that. But I'd like to think about apply it to design, photography or education....so we'll see where the next years take me.

I also wanted to thank all of you for your encouraging word with the "ciao bella"-ing. I really shouldn't be mad for someone calling me beautiful. And I wanted to write this entry as soon as possible so that you knew optimistic Jac is still in check.


Ciao!

Jacqueline

“Your time is limited, so don't waste it living someone else's life. Don't be trapped by dogma - which is living with the results of other people's thinking. Don't let the noise of other's opinions drown out your own inner voice. And most important, have the courage to follow your heart and intuition. They somehow already know what you truly want to become. Everything else is secondary."-Steve Jobs

Tuesday, July 17, 2007

Wall...Face....Ouch

Hit a bit of a wall yesterday. If you missed my complaining/thought I've been too happy the last three weeks and want to see me in pain, read on, otherwise just skip it to the next paragraph.

It seems the heat sneaked into Florence while I was in Chianti and sleeping before two am is now our of the question. Waking up early due to the construction noise/heat combination, I headed to the library to use the wireless and attempt to upload pictures from Chianti. After a couple hours of frustration on both the blog website and flickr.com, I gave up. My head ached from not having my morning cup of coffee that I had religiously ordered in Chianti. (I don't like being dependent on stimulants...I might turn into my mom, aka 4 espresso joe) [ironically today when I was uploading Elizabeth's piece, there were no problems.....grr]. After this I met Elizabeth in the market, starved I grabbed a sandwich at my favorite spot, but still with a headache, somehow resisted ordering a cappuccino since I was eager to get home and finish my art assignment...I hadn't really started. Lugging around my laptop and veggies I trotted home in the dripping heat. When I got up the tree flights of stairs, I grabbed my notebook and went to Plaza S. Marco to sketch people. Since I am not aloof in any sense, I received awkward stares before I even began. Fusturated I decided to focus my series on objects rather than people and walked back to my street and sat in the door way of a near by apt. I sketched a lamp and a locked bicycle, but lacking the patience for such a technical drawing I grew more fusturated--especially when an Italian man sat next to me and started going on in Italian. I wanted to punch him although I knew he was just trying to pick me up. When he realized my lack of Italian, he ciao bella-ed me and was on his way, and I darted to the Piazza S. Lorenzo to draw more bikes (I needed 5). Here in the sun, I messily drew a few more bikes, got ciao bella-ed again but he had a bit better English. (Sometimes I'm glad I don't know too much Italian....) Then I noticed I had left my large watercolor pad with my floral trifect in it, at the apartment, and so I went back for it. Arriving in my apartment, my head throbed and I felt the beginnings of a migraine. I turned off the lights (or rather just never turned them on) and lied in the hot of my room on my bed, tearing up with pain. Not only did I not want a migraine like the only other one I have ever had, but I also didn't want to admit to myself that I had let my stress levels get so out of wack while I was having this wonderful time in Florence. I let go getting mad at myself, popped some excedrin migraine in and read my insurance information, preparing myself for the worst. (at the same time I worried about my rather pink eye that I have had the last four days). ......then after an hour in my apartment, I dusted myself off and headed down to my art class, not in any mood to draw or paint, especially naked Italian men.

After class got better, Elizabeth and Alyssa were cooking dinner and I relaxed with some wine. I was glad to come home to friendly faces, although I did find myself lingering in the refrigerator a bit. As pictured in Liz's entry, she made delicious risotto with chicken and green beans (she was even impressed with how delicious it was and perfectly cooked).

Don't know if I slept any better last night, but I'm taking it easier today. (don't freak out Mom and Dad, I just thought it would be a little hilarious for those who have lived with me and understand my temperament too well....)

Here are also a few pictures from the Bobali Gardens and the Pitti Palace where Elizabeth I toured on Sunday.

At the top of the Bobali Gardens looking down on the Pitti Palace and Florence


Elizabeth loved these modern sculptures at are everywhere in Florence. Here is one of my favorites of the MANY pictures I took her and her men.


Look I'm in a bathtub!...in the silver museum.....?


Gelato from Perche no? Yummy


Alyssa and Venom, trying to cheer me up.





Ciao (bella)

Jac

Elizabeth's Debut Food Column

About a week ago, Jacqueline informed me that her mom was pretty upset that there wasn’t more on her blog about all the wonderful food we have been enjoying. So, here I am, the official food columnist for Jacqueline’s blog. For those who want the delicious details, I’ll take you on a culinary tour of the best gelatos, crispiest pizzas, refreshing gazpachos, and much more. You’ll probably also get a few dining and cooking tips I’ve learned along the way.

After a week of absence, Jacqueline and I were reunited Saturday. That evening, a few of us went to a Mexican restaurant called Tijuana. The best way to describe our food was Mexican food, Italian style. The salsa reminded me of tomato sauce, imagine that. The place was called Tijuana, enough said.


The next day we headed to the Boboli gardens on one of the hottest days we’ve had so far. After a few hours of touring, we were starved and of course decided to travel all the way across Florence for what the travel guide said was one of the best pizzas here. Jacqueline and I are very willing to go great lengths for deliciousness. The ingredients came from the Naples region and it was a local favorite, how could anyone go wrong? The walked seemed like it went on forever, but it was definitely worth it. The indoor seating of the restaurant was decorated to look like a quaint, southern Italian town. The decorations were complete with brick walls, street signs, hanging laundry and iron gates. The pizza was amazing, and most definitely worth the long walk back. Jacqueline had a vegetarian pizza and I had a traditional Margherita pizza. (FYI: If the pizza doesn’t have basil, it’s not a true Margherita pizza. Would an Italian flag be Italian without the green? Didn’t think so.) The crust was airy and crispy and the sauce was light and tomato-y. The pizza was cooked in a huge flaming oven by a man who “looked like he enjoyed his pizzas” (Jacqueline’s words).

On our way home we stopped at the 2nd best gelateria in Florence called Perche no? (why not?...exactly our thought process). Jacqueline got blackberry and lemon and I got a watermelon granita (a kind of Italian slushee, which I know how to make!). These gelaterias only use the best ingredients, which is why they are so popular. The fruit gelatos truly taste like you are eating the actual fruit and are incredibly refreshing after a hot day. One of the reasons gelato tastes better than ice cream is because it is served at a slightly warmer temperature, allowing you to enjoy the flavor of the ice cream as opposed to suffering from frost bite.

For dinner we went to a restaurant that we’ve been waiting to go to for a week. Quattro Leoni had been written up in every book and was highly recommended by my teacher. Jacqueline, Alyssa and I had tried going there before but we were turned away because we didn’t have reservations. We left in awe after previewing the most gorgeous tomatoes I have ever seen. They were such a bright red and looked too perfect to be eaten. Back to our dinner. We started with tomato bruschetta with those amazing tomatoes. This appetizer is one of the reasons why I love Italy so much. Everything is so fresh and produce is only eaten when it’s in season. That is one of the reasons Italian cooking is so simple; there is no reason to cover up something that already tastes good straight from the market. Jacqueline and Colleen both got gazpacho, a cold, tomato-based soup. With a hint of bell pepper and carrot, the soup was definitely something you want to eat on a hot day. Alyssa got panzanella, a traditional summer salad made with tomatoes, cucumbers, onions and day old bread soaked in water and then crumbled and tossed with the vegetables. This recipe added some celery for an extra refreshing bite. I attempted to order grilled chicken and spinach but only ever got the spinach, which was very sad since I’ve been looking forward to this restaurant. [editor's note: Jac did ask multipule times if Elizabeth would like her to inquire after the polo...] The meal was redeemed by the pear and chocolate tart I had for dessert.

That’s it for now, but I’ll leave you with a simple recipe for panzanella. Toss diced tomatoes, onion and cucumber in a bowl with chopped basil. Add some oil, vinegar, salt and pepper. Soak day old bread for a few minutes in cold water and then squeeze out the excess water. Crumble the bread into the bowl, mix everything together and enjoy!

-Elizabeth

editor's note: Tell Elizabeth she is a good writer because we want more food bits in the blog. I mean it only took three weeks of nagging to get her to write this one. Below is a photo of our risoto (Chicken, green bean and parmezan by Elizabeth) and a dish I had at the castle in Chianti (however, it was so disappointing I rather not bring it up again....) dinner last night. I'll try to upload more pictures from the Mexican resturant and 4 Leoni, however they are on liz's camera.

Back from Chianti


hot and cool tones at the pool

An hour and half windy bus ride lead us to Castello di Meleto, our home for the week. Its beauty instantly blew us away as we pinched ourselves as we walked through the spice garden and down to the infinity pool. Our lodging was a spacious villa up the hill from the castle. Instantly we made our way to the pool to relieve any motion sickness left over from the bus trip up. Here I got in the mindset for one of my paintings, which focuses on hot and cold color tones.

Castle tower


Castle tower
Originally uploaded by jstark

view of our villa from the castle


view of our villa from the castle
Originally uploaded by jstark

Our villa is the top building on the hill. It was pretty sweet. We all had dropped jaws when we found out we'd be living there.

Lavender from the Spice Garden


lavender
Originally uploaded by jstark

Painting in the spice garden, you were among soooo many bees. The constant buzzing was almost like white noise and I was able to really focus in on the subject. Sorry Dad, this might be an especially soar subject for you after this weekend....

pool


pool
Originally uploaded by jstark

GET JEALOUS

stairs at the wine factory


stairs at the wine factory
Originally uploaded by jstark